Tuesday 7 October 2014

Constructing Piped seams

Piping seams is a decorative technique that can be used in several different ways. It can be used on a plain seam, around corners, as a finished edge on the top of the bodice (joining lining or a facing with the outer fabric) and it is also used for furnishings such as cushion covers. 
Piped seams in contrasting colour.
http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/05/57/e8/0557e8a50781252d094911fbe46dda32.jpg [7/10/14]

Piped cushions. 
http://www.emmajohnston.com/product/contrast-piped-cushions-large/ [7/10/14]

Equipment needed -
Scissors
Satin cut on bias
Piping Chord
Garment / interior fabric
Single needle lock stitch machine, snls (domestic machine may be used)
Right handed single machine foot 

Constructing the Piping
1. A long strip of fabric 3cm in width was cut on the bias. Using satin fabric.
2. The piping chord was then cut at the same length as the satin.
3. A right handed single foot was used to stitch (using a running stitch on a snls) as close to the chord as possible. With the satin folded in half leaving a 1.5cm width which will be encased in seam allowance. 

Shown in the pictures below.

In industry encased piping can be bought ready made enabling construction to take place faster and may also reduce costs if bought in bulk. 



Piped seam sample
1. The encased satin piping was constructed.
2. The piping was placed and stitched on top of the garment fabric with the edges together. Stitching as close to the piping chord as possible. 

When doing this method the satin slipped when stitching therefore as shown below the piping doesn't lie exactly on the edge of the fabric. This was a minor problem when making the sample, however when constructing a made to measure couture bodice taking a larger seam allowance may alter the fit of the garment.


3. Next the piping was encased by stitching the seam together using a snls. This was done where previous stitching could be seen, ensuring this stitching will be encased in the seam. If all stitching is not encased it could look untidy on the correct side of the garment taking away from the neat clean finish.


4. The seam was neatened with a four thread overlocker due to the material being of medium weight. 
5. Press the seam to one side. Here the sample was finished however under stitching may be added if the technique is joining a lining and outer garment. Also top stitching could be added giving an extra decorative technique. 

Finished seam below


After completing the seam and having little problems, this would be a good option to consider in future design work. The clean finish of the piping gives an expensive and professional look that wanted from a couture garment. Contrasts could also be made using a different coloured piping to that of the garment adding a unique decorative effect. Further samples could be completed incorporating boning into the seam allowance left from this method. Therefore leaving a both functional and decorative technique. 

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