Toile construction and further adaptations

Once all adaptations had been made to the bodice pattern it was then time manufacture a toile. This let the production process be tested and allowed all mistakes to be made at this stage. Meaning the final garment manufacture should run smoothly. Once the toile was complete the fit of the garment tested and any alterations needed were changed on the pattern pieces.

The toile was made out of Scuba fabric which has similar properties and handle to neoprene which will be used for the final bodice. The sucuba was block fused with interfacing to thicken the fabric.   

Lay Plan

The above lay plan was produced in order to find the most efficient/ cost saving way of cutting out the pattern pieces. On reflection of this process the pattern pieces should have been placed on the fabric as above and then drawn around with tailors chalk. They could then have been flipped and pinned next to this leaving a more accurate lay plan image. And giving a more accurate measurement as to how much fabric is needed for one bodice.  

Toile Manufacture

• The toile was constructed using a single needle lock stitch industrial sewing machine. Mainly using a standard foot and also a single foot for inserting a zip. All edges were left raw and un-neatened as the neoprene does not fray when trimmed. 
• All of the seams were sewn using a 2cm seam allowance. Allowing the boning to be stitched to the seam allowance using the method of an open seam with channel. Previously discussed ( Methods of Boning ). 
• A section of calico 7cm wide was sewn down the centre front due to the 3D pyramid structures yet to be made. Therefore the calico was used as a temporary substitute due to its strong handle when doubled over and bonded.  

Problems found and solutions

1. The first problem found was that the open seam allowances could be seen over the top of the bodice. Therefore the pattern pieces were changed accordingly.

The image above shows when the seam allowance was folded back how it could be seen. This was altered by simply folding back the seam allowance on the pattern piece and cutting off the excess making the open seam allowance in line with the top of the bodice. 

Some of the seam allowances were to short when pressed open. This was corrected by taping extra pattern paper behind the original pattern. The seam allowance was folded back and then the excess trimmed as before. Therefore making the seam allowance in line with the top of the bodice.

2.  The second problem found was that there was excess fabric in the bust area. This was only at the top of the bodice and not at the bottom. After checking the fabric hadn't stretched in construction it was decided the pattern needed to be altered. Therefore the pattern piece was split and closed removing the excess fabric. 

The image to the right shows how the newly taped pattern piece which was then traced off and the top bodice line smoothed.