Methods of Boning

In preparation for the construction of my final strapless bodice, I produced samples of different boning methods in order to decide which method would suit my design at a later stage. It also allowed me to get a feel of how each method looks and what the construction entails. 

All of my samples were constructed on calico 20cm in length. All binding is cut to 17cm in length leaving 1.0cm seam allowance at each end of the seam along with 0.5cm ease to allow for any roll in the fabric. 

Equipment used - Scissors, 4 thread overlocker, single needle lock stitch industrial sewing machine, industrial press.

If you are conducting the methods at home a domestic sewing machine could be used along with an alternative overlock stitch depending on the fabric you are using. 

Drafting a Basic Bodice Block

Working towards creating a haute couture bodice, a basic bodice block was drafted in order to be adapted at a later stage. Following the Martin Shoben and Jannet Ward book 'Patter cutting and Making up Volume 1,' I drafted the basic bodice block onto card. 

Drafting onto card is something new to me however it saves time and also allows the card pattern to be traced and re-used with little damage. A good tip if you plan on adapting a block several times, which is what I plan on doing to achieve my design at the perfect fit.

Taping the mannequin

Taping a mannequin is how to begin any garment construction project, when making a garment to fit a mannequin. 

My brief for this semester is to produce a strapless bodice using boning. Therefore it is important for the garment to be fitted to the body. 

In order to get accurate measurements I practiced taping a size 12 Kennet & Lindsell Ltd Concept 2008 mannequin. Pinning tape in the areas where measurements are needed to begin bodice work. For example the waist line, top and bottom hip lines, center front and center back and also the bust line.