Methods of Boning

In preparation for the construction of my final strapless bodice, I produced samples of different boning methods in order to decide which method would suit my design at a later stage. It also allowed me to get a feel of how each method looks and what the construction entails. 

All of my samples were constructed on calico 20cm in length. All binding is cut to 17cm in length leaving 1.0cm seam allowance at each end of the seam along with 0.5cm ease to allow for any roll in the fabric. 

Equipment used - Scissors, 4 thread overlocker, single needle lock stitch industrial sewing machine, industrial press.

If you are conducting the methods at home a domestic sewing machine could be used along with an alternative overlock stitch depending on the fabric you are using. 

1. Open Seam with channel

a) Stitch a 1.5cm open seam with 4 thread overlocking on the edges. 

Shown to the left

b) Using pre folded binding (the same length as the seam). Attach the binding to the open seam, stitching flat along each edge.

Shown to the right

c) Slide the boning inside the binding.

Shown to the left
d) Stitch a 0.5cm seam at the top and bottom of the binding, to encase it in the seam.

Shown to the right

This is a very simple method of boning which was easy to construct. The satin binding would be a good option to use if a garment wasn't lined. It is a neat method again meaning it could be used on an unlined garment. No top stitching is created on the right side of the garment which wouldn't deflect from the overall look. Industry may not chose this method as it can be expensive to buy binding, however the alternative options such as lining a bodice may be even more expensive. 

2. Encased channelled seam with top-stitching

 a) Stitch a 2cm seam and press to one side.

b) Measure the width of boning and stitch down the seam allowance leaving enough room to insert the boning.

Shown on the left

c) Insert the boning.

Shown on the right

d) Stitch a 0.5cm seam at the top and bottom of the boning, as on the previous sample.

When producing this sample I came across the problem of my fabric fraying. This meant my stitching pulled away and I had to redo the seam. However the stitching was still to close to the edge of the folded seam allowance, therefore if I was to do this method again I would ensure I caught all material in the seam. I could also overlock the seam allowance together before sewing the seam in order to prevent fraying. The picture below shows this. 

This method is usually used in lined garments due to the raw edges. It also leaves a row of top stitching which can look untidy if not parallel with the original seam. 

3. Direct application

a) Cut a 5.5cm length strip of unfolded bias tape. Fold into quarters and fold over the top of the boning and stitch down with the machine. This protects it from piercing the outer fabric. 

Shown above and to the left

b) Draw a line down the centre of the sample to get the boning straight. Leaving 1.5cm at the top and bottom of the fabric.

Shown to the left

c) Stitch the boning to the fabric by stitching down each edge of the boning. Ensure that stitching is 

parallel due top stitching showing on the outer garment. As shown to the right.

This method is different from all of the others I produced due to the boning not being sewn into a seam. This can be used as a decorative method and to produce a stronger structured bodice with boning which is located in the middle of a panel. 






4. Open seam direct application

a) Follow step a from Direct application.
b) Stitch a 1.5cm open seam with 4 thread overlock.
c) Mark 1.5cm seam allowance from the top and the bottom of the seam.
d) Stitch down both edges of the boning making sure the stitching is straight and the boning is directly in the middle of the seam.

When constructing this method two rows of top stitching is produced on the outer material. This can again ,like the previous method, look untidy if the stitching isn't straight or parallel. However the top stitching can give a nice decorative feature.

My preferred method is the Open seam with channel. This is because all raw edges are finished with overlocking and the satin bias binding encases the boning well without the need for lining. As well as this no top stitching is produced meaning less risk of outer stitching looking untidy.