Open ended zip insertions

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Having chosen upon the final bodice design a open ended zip has been decided as the fastening. This is due to the ease in getting in and out of the bodice. Originally rouleau loops were going to be used however this is a more delicate method which didn't match the heavy neoprene material. Open ended zips are used for garments which open up completely for example the centre front of a jacket or coat. As well as the centre back of a bodice or corset allowing it to be wrapped around the body and then zipped with ease.

Double sided neoprene will be used to construct the bodice. Specifically black and white in colour. One of the samples was made from the neoprene fabric however due to the cost of the fabric scuba was used for the others. Scuba has similar properties to neoprene and was fused to add thickness before using for the samples. 

Equipment
- Single needle lock stitch or domestic sewing machine
- Scissors
- Neoprene or Scuba
- An open ended zip
- Half foot for sewing machine

Open ended zip insertion method 1
1. The zip was opened.
2. Lining up the top of the zip teeth with the top of the fabric. With the right side of the zip to the right side of the fabric.
3. Stitching as close to the teeth as possible, the zip was stitched down. 

4a. The excess tape was tucked into the seam allowance before turning back the fabric and stitching down with a 0.6cm top stitch. Leaving the excess tape encased in the folded back seam. 

4b. The excess tape was folded back so it will be visible on the inside of the garment. Stitching it down to the seam allowance. A 0.6cm top stitch was stitched to the fabric. The picture below shows how this method should look.

Method 4a is shown to the right and 4b is shown to the left.  Out of the two methods the left is the better one. This is due to the tape not being fully hidden within the seam allowance on method 4a. However both of the methods look untidy and wouldn't be up to the high standards needed on a couture bodice. 

Open ended zip layed on application

1. The zip was directly sewn on top of the fabric.
2. Stitching close to the teeth as shown on the left. Ensuring the fabric was caught and that the zip could still function.
3. Once the opposite side was sewn, the edge of the zip tape was then stitched down using an edge row top stitch. 

4. The excess tape was trimmed off using scissors. 

This method looks neater than the previous ones as there is no double layers of neoprene. Stitching on a double layer was hard due to the thickness of the fabric. Also by cutting off the excess tape there is no bulk from having to fold it back. However this method may not be suitable due to the fraying of the material. Difficulty was encountered when stitching down the zip close to the teeth. The material was missed at the back therefore having to be sewn again. Care would need to be taken on a final garment. 

Open ended under zip insertion

1. The fabric was directly placed and stitched on top of the zip tape. Placing it the correct distance from the teeth so that the zip puller still functions. An edge row top stitch was used to stitch the fabric down.

2. The extra tape was cut away. Leaving the finished sample below.

This is the chosen method which will be used for the final bodice. It was the most simplest method of the above however a different way of folding back the excess tape needs to be experimented with. As the fabric will fray. When using this method the edges of the fabric have to be cut perfectly straight and placed in line with the zip teeth giving a neat finish.