Constructing Rouleau Loops

Rouleau loops are a common fastening used on bodices. Producing different samples will allow me to select the most appropriate method when designing my bodice. 

Rouleau loops are mainly sewn down the centre back opening and are often used with a facing of material behind due to the skin being exposed. They are extremely common in wedding dresses (as shown in the picture) and are made in light weight materials such as satin and silk. However for the purpose of my sample I have used lining material. Elastic can also used as a loop however the elastic is bought therefore achieving a similar look at a cheaper price. 

In Industry the loops may be pre bought on a thin strip of material which would then be sewn into place meaning less work for the machinists piecing together the garment. 

Equipment needed -Single needle lock stitch sewing machine (A domestic machine can be used)
Rouleau loop turner
Scissors
Industrial press (Iron can be used)
Light weight material for loops
Fabric for garment or sample

Preparing for construction is very important. Material must be cut on the bias at a 45 degree angle. In order to do this a set square was used, placing the straight edge on the selvedge of the fabric. The diagonal is now a 45 degree angle and can be marked onto the fabric and cut.

If a set square is not available you can make your own template by cutting a square out of paper or card, making sure all sides are equal. Next the square should be folded diagonally leaving you with a 45 degree angle to achieve the bias.

1. Cut a 2cm wide strip of fabric on the bias. Or the desired width for your loops.

2. Fold the width of the fabric in half and stitch down. Using the edge of the single needle lock stitch machine foot as a seam allowance guide.

Shown to the left, the finished result on the right.

3. Trim half of the seam allowance away allowing the fabric to be turned the correct way easily.

4. Using a rouleau loop turner, hook the top of the fabric and pull through. Turning the fabric the correct way. This can be a temperamental task however with patience will work! 

Turned through fabric to the left.

5. Cut the fabric into 4cm lengths. Or to your desired length, depending on the size of you buttons.

6. Fold the strips in half making sure the seam will be facing inside the garment. 

7. Mark the points at which the loops will be sewn, in this case 1.5cm apart.

Shown to the above right.

8. Use a running stitch to attach the loops the the fabric edge. Making sure the right side of the loops are facing the right side of the fabric when sewn. In this case the edge will be bagged out therefore a raw edge will not be seen. 

Shown to the left. 

9. Attach the facing fabric making sure the loops are not caught in the seam and are laying flat. Stitch the seam slightly larger than that used to attach the loops. Therefore all stitching is encased in the facing.

Shown to the above right.

10. Press the seam flat towards the facing material. Understitch on the inside edge of the facing. Holding back the seam allowance and preventing the material from rolling. 

The final sample is shown above. This is a neat method as all stitching is covered by a facing. It is also simple to construct, however when stitching the loops down it was difficult due to the small sizes of the loops. The lining used for this sample caused the loops to lie flat instead of the slight roll/bounce given with a satin material. If this method was to be repeated I would choose a better material and also space the loops at more accurately. 

Bodice image - http://joanneflemingdesign.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/oxfam-weddings-online-auction.html [Accessed -1/10/14]