Constructing Pin Tucks

http://www.shopbop.com/satin-pants-zac-posen/
vp/v=1/1536341031.htm?folderID=2534374302186861&
colorId=12688&extid=affprg-4441350 [18/10/14]

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/d2/15/80/
d215803bd2e8983c782513529c99914d.jpg [18/10/14]

Pintucks are a decorative technique used on fashion garments. They are mainly used on bodices as shown in the picture. However can be used on all garments to add texture or a 3D feel to the fabric. The final pintucks can be pressed to one side or left to stand.

The best effects are produced on light weight fabric such as organza or silk, this is because the pintucks can be made very small. Whereas this may not be possible with thicker fabrics such as denim.

In industry pintucks can be made using a special foot on the sewing machine making it easier and faster to sew. This is extremely useful as tucks are produced in large numbers, it would be very rare to find one pintuck on a garment. 

Constructing Piped seams

Piping seams is a decorative technique that can be used in several different ways. It can be used on a plain seam, around corners, as a finished edge on the top of the bodice (joining lining or a facing with the outer fabric) and it is also used for furnishings such as cushion covers. 

Piped seams in contrasting colour.
http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/05/57/e8/0557e8a50781252d094911fbe46dda32.jpg [7/10/14]
Piped cushions. 
http://www.emmajohnston.com/product/contrast-piped-cushions-large/ [7/10/14]

Fitting a Basic Block to a Mannequin

Previously a basic block was drafted from the Martin Shoben and Janet Ward pattern cutting book. The instructions for this can be followed on my previous post. 

http://fashiongarmentandconstruction.blogspot. co.uk/2014/09/drafting-basic-bodice-block.html

This post will explain how the block was constructed and then altered to fit the mannequin. This final bodice for this module will be made to fit a size 12 Kennet and Lindsell Concept 2008 mannequin. However leaving some ease taking into account although people may be a size 12 they can still differ in measurements.

For this adaptation an full bodice block was constructed, although only half of the block was adapted to fit the mannequin. Therefore leaving half the garment in its original form showing the transition made.

Constructing Rouleau Loops

Rouleau loops are a common fastening used on bodices. Producing different samples will allow me to select the most appropriate method when designing my bodice. 

Rouleau loops are mainly sewn down the centre back opening and are often used with a facing of material behind due to the skin being exposed. They are extremely common in wedding dresses (as shown in the picture) and are made in light weight materials such as satin and silk. However for the purpose of my sample I have used lining material. Elastic can also used as a loop however the elastic is bought therefore achieving a similar look at a cheaper price. 

In Industry the loops may be pre bought on a thin strip of material which would then be sewn into place meaning less work for the machinists piecing together the garment.