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Pintucks are a decorative technique used on fashion garments. They are mainly used on bodices as shown in the picture. However can be used on all garments to add texture or a 3D feel to the fabric. The final pintucks can be pressed to one side or left to stand.
The best effects are produced on light weight fabric such as organza or silk, this is because the pintucks can be made very small. Whereas this may not be possible with thicker fabrics such as denim.
In industry pintucks can be made using a special foot on the sewing machine making it easier and faster to sew. This is extremely useful as tucks are produced in large numbers, it would be very rare to find one pintuck on a garment.
When incorporating pintucks into a pattern piece they are constructed similar to pleats. Splitting and opening the master pattern to adapt the shape for the pin tucks. They are then notched onto the fabric when cutting it out. Alternatively the pintucks may be stitched onto the fabric first, next placing the pattern on top of the tucked fabric. Leaving you with the finished fit of the selected pattern piece.
Equipment needed
-Single needle lock stitch sewing machine (or domestic sewing machine)
-Scissors
-Ruler or set square
Traditional Pintuck
Traditional pintucks must be sewn on the straight grain in order for all tucks to be parallel. If the tucks are sewn on the bias they will twist and could look uneven. However this may be the effect you are after. Experimenting with tucks can produce a wide range of looks and effects.
1. The fabric was notched with chalk and scissors at the points where the notches will be positioned. In this case 2cm apart creating a 0.5cm tuck.Shown to the left.
2. The fabric was then folded at the notches and then sewn. Lining the edge of the machine foot with the fold as a guide.
Shown to the right.
3. This process was continued to make all tucks. Ensuring they were all even and parallel to each other.
The finished sample is shown to the left. Here the tucks have not been pressed to give a more 3D look however tucks could be pressed for a flatter effect.
Twisted Pintucks
1. 4X4cm squares were marked onto the calico ensuring the lines are on the straight grain.
Shown to the left.
2. The lines were notched with scissors making them easier to fold.
3. Vertical pintucks/traditional pintucks were stitched using the same method as previous.
Shown to the right.
4. Traditional pintucks were sewn on the horizontal lines. Folding the previous tucks so that they lie in the same direction as each other.5. This was continued on all lines. However folding the previously sewn tucks in opposite directions on alternate lines.
This produces the sample to the right. Leaving a twisted pin tuck effect. With a 3D look.
4. A running stitch was sewn on the horizontal lines. Folding the previous tucks in the same direction as each other.
5. The previous tucks were folded in the opposite way when the next horizontal row was sewn. Again twisting the tucks. The finished sample is below.This look is very similar to the previous twisted pintucks however this sample looks less busy and was easier to complete. Giving a flatter effect.
Overall all pintuck methods were simple to complete. The traditional pintucks were the easiest due to there being no folding of previous tucks. However it is important to get all preparation accurate before sewing. If the tucks are not parallel it can look untidy and the tucks can become twisted. If sewn onto a bodice this would be a large problem due to what is meant to be a fitted bodice would then be twisted an uncomfortable.
I would like to experiment with this method more to see what different looks can be achieved.
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