Fitting a Basic Block to a Mannequin

Previously a basic block was drafted from the Martin Shoben and Janet Ward pattern cutting book. The instructions for this can be followed on my previous post. 

http://fashiongarmentandconstruction.blogspot. co.uk/2014/09/drafting-basic-bodice-block.html

This post will explain how the block was constructed and then altered to fit the mannequin. This final bodice for this module will be made to fit a size 12 Kennet and Lindsell Concept 2008 mannequin. However leaving some ease taking into account although people may be a size 12 they can still differ in measurements.

For this adaptation an full bodice block was constructed, although only half of the block was adapted to fit the mannequin. Therefore leaving half the garment in its original form showing the transition made.


Equipment needed - 
Single needle lock stitch machine (a domestic sewing machine can be used)
Unpicker
Pencil
Tape measure
Mannequin - in this case Kennet and Lindesll Concept 2008 Size 12 
Calico/ toile fabric
Scissors

 Constructing the bodice
1. Cut the basic bodice block out of calico.

2. Start by stitching all darts on the front and back of the bodice

Shown to the left.

3. Stitch all seams with a 2cm seam allowance - side seams and shoulder seams.

Shown to the right.
Finished constructed bodice below.

Fitting to the mannequin
4. Place the bodice on the mannequin. When doing this it became clear to me that the 2cm neckline seam allowance must be removed in order for the bodice to sit correctly and be manipulated more easily. To do this measure 2cm down from the neckline with a tape measure marking the points with a pencil. Remove the bodice from the mannequin and trim away the seam allowance marked. 

Bodice Block before neckline seam allowance was removed.

5. Pin the bodice securely at the centre front, centre back, shoulder seam and side seam. Ensuring all seams will remain in the correct place whilst manipulating the bodice. 

6. The bodice showed gaping at the side seam (shown to the left) with more material needing to be taken from the back than the front. If this is the case for you unpick the side seam and re-pin in the desired way. Ensure that enough material is taken from the back material so the back dart does not need significant adaptations.

The newly pinned side seam is shown to the right.

7. Extend the back dart and pin into place. Smoothing out the fabric as you work ensuring no pleats or tucks will be formed and that the bodice will lie correctly. 

Shown in both pictures. 

 8. Follow the same step to adjust the two front darts.
On completion of this the decision was made to from a princess line instead of two darts due to the excess material at the bust point. 
You may not choose to take this step if not needed. There are several ways to adjust the bodice depending on the mannequin and measurements used to fit it to.

Shown in both pictures.


All adjustments were marked on the fabric in pencil making it easier to form a flat pattern from at a later stage. Calico is easy to mark and work with for toile purposes.

 9. If producing a strapless bodice or a bodice with a unique shaped neckline. Mark this on the fabric, again making it easier to form a pattern from and also making it clearer for the eye to see how the garment will look. 

In this case a strapless bodice will be formed. At this early stage a basic neckline was marked however this can be altered at a later time. 22cm was measured from the back hem and marked on the fabric. Ensuring the back will be straight. Using the eye to mark the rest of the line ensuring it went touched the bottom of the current armhole position. 

Next the bodice can be unpicked and a flat paper pattern drafted. This can then be constructed and any further adaptations added. This technique can be used for all types of garments fitted to the mannequin.